BY AMALIA SIEBER
4 (4, 5) skeins (155y/100g) Wool and the Gang Shiny Happy Cotton in color Ivory White
For cable-knit (flat), using size 7 / 4.5mm: 21 st x 27 rows for 4” / 10cm.
For body (in the round), using size 6 / 4mm : 19 st x 26 rows for 4” / 10cm
US 7 / 4.5mm circular needle, 16” / 40cm (for cable border) or 10” / 25cm straight needles
US 6 / 4mm circular needle, 32” or 36” / 80cm or 90cm (for body)
US 6 / 4mm circular needle, 16” / 40cm (for mock collar)
Cable needle or DPN
4mm or smaller Crochet hook (for provisional cast-on & fringe)
Locking stitch markers
S/M (M/L, L/XL)
Designed for 2” / 5cm positive ease at bust, and 4-6” / 10-15cm positive ease at waist.
Finished bust circumference: 35” (39”, 43”) / 90cm (99cm, 109cm)
Finished waist. circumference (measured from top braid) : 32” (36”, 40”) / 81cm ( 91.5cm, 101.5cm).
Finished length (collar to fringe): 21.5” (22.5”, 24”) / 54.5cm (57cm, 61cm)
Note: since the waistband is knitted sideways, it will have much less stretch than a regular knit. Being able to comfortably pull the top over your bust is a priority.
Bust: 35 (39, 43) in / 90 (99, 109) cm
High waist: 32 (36, 40) in / 81 (91, 101) cm
Low waist: 34 (38, 42) in / 85 (95, 105) cm
Waist to underarm: 6.5 (7, 7.5) in / 16.5 (17.75, 19) cm
Underarm to neck: 5.5 (6, 7) in / 14 (15.25, 17.75) cm
Collar height: 2 in / 5 cm
Neck opening (unstretched): 17 (17.5, 18) in / 43 (44.5, 45.75) cm
Front neck to waist: 12 (13, 14.5) in / 30.5 (33, 37) cm
Back neck to waist: 12.5 (13.5, 15) in / 31.75 (34.25, 38) cm
Cable waistband: 3.5 in / 9 cm
Fringe: 4 in / 10 cm
Total length: 21.5 (22.5, 24) in / 54.5 (57, 61) cm
Knitting flat & in the round
Charted & written directions
Picking up stitches
Note: The hardest part about this pattern will be joining the two waistband ends. It is heavily encouraged that you knit 2 swatch-sized cable panels and graft them together BEFORE starting the full waistband. Full grafting instructions are included at the end of the pattern.
Begin braided waistband
Using crochet provisional cast-on, CO 16 st using your crochet hook directly to US 7/4.5mm needles.
Set up row 1 (RS) P1, k3, yo, k2tog, k5, yo, k2tog, k2, P1.
Set up row 2 (WS) K1, PM, p3, PM, p1, PM, k6, PM, k1, PM, k3, PM, k1.
Begin Chart A. Work rows 1-4 of chart until work measures 32” (36”, 40”)/81cm (91cm, 101cm), ending with WS row 2.
Try on your waistband, making sure it is a fit you like, and that it can easily slip over your bust when you take it off. Note, the stitches will lose their stretch when you pick up stitches for the body. Carefully remove waste yarn chain from your cast-on edge, while also placing the stitches onto a spare circular needle. You need to create an extra stitch with the yarn tail to have 16 st. Twist the last loop on the chain before placing it on the needle.
From the working edge, drop the stitches around the center braid, as follows: Sl1 st, remove M, (sl sts to next M, remove M, drop twisted stitch, remove M) twice, sl sts to next M, remove M, sl last st. Cut working yarn, leaving a tail 4 times the length of your work for grafting.
Join two sides of waistband with Kitchener stitch in pattern, making sure the work is not twisted! Position the provisional cast-on edge (with 16 sts) behind your working stitches (14 sts).
See notes at end of pattern for detailed grafting directions. If you prefer a simpler join instead of grafting, use 3-needle bind-off.
End your cable knitting on round 4 of Chart A, instead of round 2. Knit 2 extra stitches from the long running threads in the drop stitch columns to make the front stitch count match the back as you bind off.
Pick up stitches.
Lay your waistband flat with the right side facing up. Stretch out the column of stitches along the right edge of the fabric to find the running threads (a straight line connecting each purled edge stitch to the right braid). This running thread is where you pick up stitches to knit.
Using your longer circular needle, loosely pick up 4 stitches for every 5 from the running threads, meaning knit 4 st, skip 1 st, to the end of the waistband. 170 (192, 212) sts on needle. PM and join to work in the round.
Next Rnd Knit all.
Next Rnd *K15 (14, 17), k2tog; repeat from * 10 (12, 11) times. ON L/XL ONLY: End k1, k2tog—160 (180, 200) sts.
Knit until stockinette measures 6.5 (7, 7.5) in / 16.5 (17.75, 19) cm.
Divide for Front and Back
Work one more round to last 5 sts. Bind off 10 sts. Knit 69 (79, 89) st, bind off 10 sts. You will now work the back & front separately, with each side having 70 (80, 90) sts—140 (160, 180) sts total.
Knit to end of row. Before turning work, pick up and knit 1 st from bound off underarm. Turn work. This technique creates a seamless-looking edge between the two bound-off stitch directions.
Row 1 (WS) Bind off 4 sts (this includes the extra st grabbed in last round), purl to end—67 (77, 87) sts.
Row 2 (RS) Bind off 3 sts, knit to end—64 (74, 84) sts.
Row 3 Bind off 2 sts, purl to end.
Row 4 Bind off 2 sts, knit to end.
Repeat rows 3 & 4 once more—56 (66, 76) sts rem.
Row 5 Sl1wyif, purl to end.
Row 6 Sl1wyib, k1, ssk, knit to 4 st before edge, k2tog, k2—2 sts dec, 54 (64, 74) sts rem. Work rows 5 & 6 for 17 (18, 19) more repeats—26 (28, 30) sts rem. Work one more purl row. Cut working yarn and put back stitches on hold.
Join new yarn on the wrong side.
Row 1 (WS) Bind off 2 st, purl to end—68 (78, 88) sts.
Row 2 (RS) Bind off 2 st, knit to end—66 (76, 86) sts. Repeat rows 1 & 2 once more—62 (72, 82) sts rem.
Row 3 Sl1wyif, purl to end.
Row 4 Sl1wyib, k1, ssk, knit to 4 st before edge, k2tog, k2—2 sts dec, 60 (70, 80) st remaining. Work rows 3 & 4 for 12 (13, 14) more repeats—42 (44, 48) sts rem.
Begin Neck Shaping
Note: The following is worked in short rows, while continuing shaping at armhole edge.
Row 1 (WS) Sl1wyif, purl to end.
Row 2 (RS) Sl1wyib, k1, ssk, k11, turn.
Row 3 Sl1wyif, mds, yf, p to end.
Row 4 Sl1wyib, k1, ssk, k7, turn.
Row 5 Repeat row 3.
Row 6 Sl1wyib, k3, ssk, k2, turn.
Row 7 Repeat row 3.
Row 8 Sl1wyib, k1, ssk, k to last 4 sts working all double stitches as k2tog, end k2tog, k2.
Row 9 Sl1wyif, p13, turn.
Row 10 Yf, sl 1, mds, k to last 4 sts, k2tog, k2.
Row 11 Sl1wyif, p9, turn.
Row 12 Repeat row 10.
Row 13 Sl1wyif, p5, turn.
Row 14 Repeat row 10.
Row 15 Sl1wyif, p to end working all double stitches as p2tog—34 (36, 38) sts rem.
Join front & back
Knit across front with US 6 / 4mm 16”/40cm circular needle. Cast on 11 sts using Chinese Waitress cast on method, then join the back sts and knit across.
Cast on 11 sts as before. Place marker for beg of round, and join to work in the round—82 (86, 90) st.
Small size only:
Row 1 K1, (p1, ktbl) 7 times, p1, ssk, (p1, ktbl) 7 times, p1, k1, twist the cast-on slack and purl it like a m1P, k1, p1, PM, k6, PM, (p1, k1) twice, p1, (Ktbl, p1) 5 times, ssk, (p1, ktbl) 6 times, twist the cast-on slack and purl it like a m1P, k1, p1, PM, k6, PM, p1, ktbl, p1.
Row 2 (Ktbl, p1) 18 times, SM, work Chart B, SM, p1, (ktbl, p1) 15 times, SM, work Chart B, SM, p1, ktbl, p1. Knit twisted stitch ribbing as in row 2, while continuing the Chart B cables until collar measures 2”. End using double chain bind-off, or your favorite stretchy bind-off.
Medium size only:
Row 1 K1, (p1, ktbl) 7 times, p1, ssk, (p1, ktbl) 8 times, p1, k1, twist the cast-on slack and purl it like a m1P, k1, p1, PM, k6, PM, (p1, k1) twice, (p1, Ktbl) 6 times, p1, ssk, (p1, ktbl) 6 times, twist the cast-on slack and purl it like a m1P, k1, p1, PM, k6, PM, p1, ktbl, p1.
Row 2 (Ktbl, p1) 19 times, SM, work Chart B, SM, p1, (ktbl, p1) 16 times, SM, work Chart B, SM, p1, ktbl, p1. Repeat row 2 while continuing the Chart B cables until collar measures 2”. End using double chain bind-off, or your favorite stretchy bind-off.
Large size only:
Row 1 K1, (p1, ktbl) 8 times, p1, ssk, (p1, ktbl) 8 times, p1, k1, twist the cast-on slack and purl it like a m1P, k1, p1, PM, k6, PM, (p1, k1) twice, (p1, Ktbl) 6 times, p1, ssk, (p1, ktbl) 7 times, twist the cast-on slack and purl it like a m1P, k1, p1, PM, k6, PM, p1, ktbl, p1. Row 2 (Ktbl, p1) 20 times, SM, work Chart B, SM, p1, (ktbl, p1) 17 times, SM, work Chart B, SM, p1, ktbl, p1. Knit twisted stitch ribbing as in row 2, while continuing the Chart B cables until collar measures 2”. End using double chain bind-off, or your favorite stretchy bind-off.
Finishing, all sizes:
Finish by weaving in ends, and wet block in lukewarm water to relax stitches. Cut plenty of 10” / 25cm strands of yarn for fringe. With crochet hook and 2 strands of fringe, insert hook from back to front just above an edge stitch on the waistband. Fold the 2 strands of fringe in half and pull the loop through work Draw fringe tails down into the loop, and pull to fasten fringe. Work around waistband, adding fringe to every other edge stitch. When complete, soak or steam fringe to straighten the tails. With sharp scissors, give the fringe a haircut to measure 4” / 10cm.